Running amok in Attock
Attock promises to offer a sundry set of experiences to a Lahori venturing across its territory
By Aziz Omar
Bouncing on roads, snaking over undulating fields while halting for nonchalant cattle and human folk making their way across, is what travelling in Attock district is basically like. Of course, one passes through a diversity of densely populated small towns and cities as well as sparse settlements on hilly terrain, such as the Kalla and Chitta 'pahar' (hill). The mighty Indus defines the boundary of this district which itself borders the Frontier province. Given the history, topography and economy of the region, it is only when one delves into the inner recesses that one uncovers various intriguing facets.

The diversity of neighbourhoods and international cultures reflected in food, architecture, art and customs make San Francisco a place like home

"It's a big city, with a small, dense urban environment that is walkable and easy to navigate. The concentration of venues, proximity among hotels, restaurants and theatre are also unparalleled." This was what San Francisco's re-elected Mayor Gavin Newsom had to say while welcoming tens of thousands of delegates to a mega event held in the city last month.

And yes, within days of his stay in the city, I was convinced that Newsom was right. San Francisco does provide just the right amount of everything. A first time visitor can relate to the popular song 'I left my heart in San Francisco' and will definitely long to come here again and again. No wonder, San Francisco has been the inspiration to many songs, movies, and television shows.

The city is located on the tip of the San Francisco Peninsula, with the Pacific Ocean to the west, the San Francisco Bay to the east, and the Golden Gate to the north. The Spanish inhabited the area in late 18th century followed by influx of immigrants during the California Gold Rush in 1848. The influx continued with the latest major one, taking place during the dot-com boom of the late 1990s. It was at this time that a large numbers of entrepreneurs and IT professional, many of them from India and Pakistan, moved into the city.

Due to this phenomenon San Francisco is a minority-majority city, as non-Hispanic whites comprise less than half of the population. Asian Americans, of which Chinese are the highest in number, comprise nearly one third of the city's population comprising 750,000 individuals. The figure also includes settlers of Pakistani origin numbered around 20,000 to 25,000 according to estimates. The number of Indian expatriates on the other hand is much higher as they have been the first choice of big companies dotting the Silicon Valley in the city's vicinity.

In short, the diversity of neighbourhoods and international cultures reflected in food, architecture, art, trends and customs make the place homelike for the visitors. A manifestation of this can be seen in the form of countless food outlets across the city catering to the culinary needs of the diverse population. Whether it be Pakistani, Indian or Mediterranean halal food, Italian pizza or pasta, fast food offered by popular food chains or Japanese delight sushi, you can find it anywhere in the city. San Francisco's Chinatown -- one of the biggest Chinese settlements in the US -- serves traditional Chinese cuisine to the tourists and settlers alike.

All these characteristics make San Francisco a hot spot for tourism, international conferences and conventions. These activities are the backbone of San Francisco's economy -- something that has been frequently portrayed in music and films. In addition to these, an almost uniform and pleasant weather all over the year attracts tourists to this place.

Influenced by the cool currents of the Pacific Ocean the temperatures are low and the city is covered in fog mostly during summer and spring seasons. The scientific phenomenon at work is that these cold currents and the heat of the mainland combine to produce fog. I can easily recall the lifetime experience I had of seeing the majestic Golden Gate Bridge shrouded in fog, right under the glowing sun. The bridge, which is a distinctive landmark of San Francisco, was opened in 1937 and has a reputation of being the most photographed bridge in the world.

Another point worth noting was that every other document and place in the city carried notes on how to behave in case of an earthquake. The city that experienced major earthquakes in 1906 and 1989 has seen strict implementation of building codes. It was in 1906 that gas lines ruptured by the earthquake ignited fires that spread across the city and were out of control for several days.

San Francisco is famous for its hills, art galleries, museums, cuisine, nightlife. There are around 50 hills within the city limits and many of them are house to localities named after the hill on which they are situated. Pacific Heights, Russian Hill, and Telegraph Hill are a few cases in point. It was only in 1980s that the city saw extensive high rise development in downtown -- a phenomenon also known as the 'Manhattanisation of San Francisco.'

The place also happens to be the gay capital of the world with every one in five male city residents over the age of 15 being a homosexual. The city also hosts San Francisco Pride -- the world's best-known gay pride parade and festival.

Another major attraction in San Francisco is the city's famous cable car system that has been retained mainly for its nostalgic value. Tourists can mount on these slow moving cable cars and have a detailed view of the city landscape. The cable cars go up to the Fisherman's Wharf that's not only flocked by tourists but also is an operating wharf where many fishermen operate and park their fishing vessels.

Alcatraz prison which is less than a mile away from the Wharf is a must go for the tourists. Constructed on a rock, the place had once been the most feared and the most secure of the US federal prisons. The cruise over to Alcatraz takes about 10 minutes and provides visitors a chance to see the interior including the cells where notorious criminals have passed their days of confinement. The tale of an escape attempt from this place has been recounted in the movie 'Escape from Alcatraz.' A guide told me that the military had to use grenades to avert this attempt.

Bouncing on roads, snaking over undulating fields while halting for nonchalant cattle and human folk making their way across, is what travelling in Attock district is basically like. Of course, one passes through a diversity of densely populated small towns and cities as well as sparse settlements on hilly terrain, such as the Kalla and Chitta 'pahar' (hill). The mighty Indus defines the boundary of this district which itself borders the Frontier province. Given the history, topography and economy of the region, it is only when one delves into the inner recesses that one uncovers various intriguing facets.

Originally named Campbellpur, after Sir Campbell who laid the foundation stone of the city of Campbellpur city in 1908, Attock only acquired its name as late as 1978. However, Attock's background extends way before the 20th century, as in 520 B.C. notable mathematician and grammarian Panini was born in the ancient Kambojan/Ghandaran region. Furthermore, the still standing and in use Attock Fort was constructed under the Mughal emperor Akbar in the late 1500s. This fort served as the last frontier for the Mughal Empire against possible attacks from Afghans. However, for the past couple of decades, it has been used as prison for political prisoners (most famously Nawaz Sharif) deemed to be a threat to 'national security' and allegedly, Indian POWs.

For a first time visitor, lodging is hard to come by, even in the namesake city of Attock. You don't see or hear about any fancy hotels such as Marriot, Avari or Serena. Upon entry from the Grand Trunk road, one may catch sight of the names of guest houses such as Attock and Maskan as graffiti on various boundary walls of vacant plots. However it is the interior of the two guest houses that set them well apart. While Attock Guest House is one sleepy looking hollow with basic furnishings, Maskan's decor ostentatiously glitters like a diamond in the dusty setting. Where the former motel's reception houses one counter and a drab looking sofa on a plain chips floor, the latter boasts of a bar/counter with fancy swivelling stools and a sitting area with a large screen TV with DVD player, all surrounded by cut mirror piece panelling. However, the only drawback is that the latter is still undergoing construction and so has only three rooms which are mostly occupied. Hence one is left with no choice but to return again sheepishly to Attock guest house (which is usually the first one to be visited and is dismissed in hope of better options further down the road).

While travelling within the recently demarcated Tehsil of Hazro, one chances upon a route leading towards the famous earth-filled Tarbela dam. However, when one reaches the entry point to the dam's adjoining area, the check post personnel promptly ask for a pass. Naturally, one's immediate albeit disheartened reply is, 'what pass' and 'where do we get it?' So they inform you, that as in this particular case, from Lahore's WAPDA head office. You try to reason your best that now that you are here and about 300kms from where the pass is supposed to be made from, what other alternative is there. The guard retorts with an oft repeated suggestion which involves turning back, crossing the river via the Ghazi-Barotha barrage and going up a rocky trail up the hillside from where the dam could be seen from a distance. One starts to wonder as to how this is supposed to be anywhere near standing on top of it and witnessing the water gushing through the flood gates.

So the only consolation of sorts is that while at the accessible vantage point, you can dine at one Abbassin restaurant. This particular eatery is nonetheless in a beautiful setting, and offers its diners a chance to relish on succulent fish while in the ambience of the River Indus. The fish are available in either 'basini' fried, roasted or barbecued form and come in various varieties such as Mahasher and Rhao, with the former being more tantalising to the taste buds. Mahasher is unique to this region and particularly breeds in the Indus delta and the Tarbela reservoir lake. The water is not furiously flowing at this point and is in fact rather placid and shimmering in a natural blue hue due to certain dissolved minerals. Thus the expanse of the river is very peaceful, with the silence only being broken by faint cries of army corps training on the other side or the squawks of an occasional flock of birds flying in intriguing V-like formations.

The Ghazi Barotha barrage diverts the water of Indus River flowing through Tarbela dam 7 km downstream to another hydro-electric project 52 km away. However, though it has contributed significantly to boosting Pakistan electricity generation, due to its construction in recent years, the migration patterns and numbers of Mahasher have been quite adversely affected.

Although not hosting a modern urban sprawl such as its neighboring district of Rawalpindi, Atttock nonetheless plays a crucial role in driving Pakistan's economy. With its vast oil reserves and aircraft upgrading and manufacturing facilities such as the Pakistan Aeronautical Complex at Kamra, Attock promises to offer a sundry set of experiences to all who venture across its territory.