Guardian of the city by the sea
By Rabia Ali
Karachi has been safe from cyclones or other natural disasters because Abdullah Shah Ghazi and his saints are guarding the Arabian Sea, believe Ghazi's devotees. The Dargah of Abdullah Shah Ghazi lies on a hilltop on Clifton, and is said to be about 1300-years-old. The shrine is not only home to Abdullah Shah Ghazi, but also to his friends and followers. Many devotees who turn up at the shrine are those who claim to have seen Ghazi in their dreams. Legend has it that if someone wishes to converse with Ghazi, then the saint appears in the person's thoughts and dreams; many even testify to the veracity of the legend.

Miracles of mediators
Small Mazaars scattered across the city may not receive as much attention in the mainstream, but their devotees number in thousands. Kolachi explores some of the legends associated with these shrines, and revered by devotees.
By Saher Baloch
Hazrat Syed Bukhari Ibrahim Shah Qadri (17th Century Saint) Mazar, Kharadar:
"The saint was known to have a pair of snakes, a white and a black one, protecting his tomb during the British era and years after that," 65-year-old Hafeez, the caretaker of the Mazaar, told Kolachi.

In the middle of the scenic Keenjhar Lake, situated some 113 km from Karachi, lies the small, open shrine of fishergirl Noori. The shrine is famous amongst young people as a symbol of love and dedication; in fact, it is a symbol of the tragic love story of Noori and King Jam Tamachi from the Unar tribe of the Sama dynasty. 

"The story that has been told through the generations is that Noori was the only daughter of a local Mallah (fisherman) named Keenjhar," narrated Ali Nawaz Helayo, an activist associated with Keenjhar Mahol Dost Tanzeem. 

"Keenjhar also had six sons, but it was Noori who braved chronic leprosy in her young age. She survived, but the disease badly damaged her face. The parents were so anxious about the future of the girl, because all their relatives had refused to consider her as an acceptable bride for their sons.  

"One day, the local ruler, Jam Tamachi, a traditional hunter of birds, was travelling nearby on a boat when his gaze fell on Noori. He immediately fell in love, despite having a number of wives in his harem. The king sent a message to Noori's parents, asking for her hand in marriage. The parents, who had seemed to lose all hope, could not believe the girl's kismet and gladly accepted the proposal.  

"The king was captivated by Noori's beauty and dedication, which bred jealousy and spite in the other queens. The queens unanimously decided to invite both the king and his new bride to dinner, where they poisoned Noori.  

"Noori was buried in the Keenjhar Lake. 

"Tamachi could not bear this loss, however, and left the palace. Historians have not been able to identify where he died. Some say that the tomb of Jam Nizam, the grandfather of Jam Tamachi, is located in the Makli graveyard, but Jam Tamachi's grave is not there," Helayo concluded.  

This love story inspired many legendary poets and story tellers of the time, but no festivals take place at the shrine to pay homage to Noori. "There were only two times that any celebration took place at the shrine; in 1984-85," said Anees Helayo, a local activist. "Bahawal Khan Unar, a landlord from the Unar tribe of the Sama dynasty came here and convinced the local community to organise a Mela at the shrine.

"The Mela attracted a large number of people. Besides the traditional Malakhro, horse and camel racing, and a boat competition, the love story was also depicted on stage. The fisherfolk, who were facing financial problems due to decreasing fish catch, were also happy as they got an opportunity to earn a little cash through their participation in the Melas," Helayo said.

The landlord could unfortunately not continue sponsoring the event, despite organising two successful Melas. Since 1986, nobody from the provincial culture department or other governmental and non-governmental organisation has taken any initiative in this regard, which has disappointed the local community, Helayo told Kolachi.

Despite the absence of official patronage, many travel to the picnic resort on every weekend in their numbers, and some travel up to the burial place to pay their respects to Noori. "The love of those coming here to pay homage to the isolated grave is immeasurable; otherwise, no initiative has been taken by any government thus far to renovate the shrine or make it more attractive," 50-year-old Mohammed Yousuf, owner of three transport boats, told Kolachi.

Yousuf said that there are many devotees who frequent the lake to merely visit Noori's grave. Most visitors to the memorial belong to Karachi, he said, adding that some come with a Chador, some sprinkle rose petals over the grave, while others distribute sweets amongst the locals.

"People usually come in large numbers during the summer vacations, in June and July. Packed small boats travel up to the shrine, and visitors have to wait their turn to pay homage. In winter, people avoid visiting the lake. Despite anything, about 35 boats are always ready at one end of the Keenjhar Lake to visitors up to the resting place of Noori, the fishergirl who married King Jam Tamachi.

Pir Mangho and the crocodiles

Legend has it that a boy, who was standing near a lagoon full of vicious crocodiles, suddenly slipped and fell into the water. The crocodiles rushed towards their prey, but the largest and most powerful one intervened, carried the boy on its back and prevented him from being eaten by the others. The head crocodile, known as More, comprehended the pleas of those standing on the shore, and brought the boy safely back.

This legend belongs to the neighbourhood of Manghopir in Gadap Town, home also to the shrine of Pir Mangho. It is said that between 1,500 and 2,000 crocodiles have lived amongst the local population for 700 years as docile, celebrated animals. Locals believe that the crocodiles were once the lice of famous Sufi saint, Baba Fareed Shakar Ganj, who had gifted them to his disciple, Mangho, about 700 to 800 years ago. Mangho had left his wayward ways to become a student of Baba Fareed, but later went on to become a Wali himself. Manghopir, the area, was named after him.

Pir Mangho's tomb is situated on a hilltop, and is bordered by a number of areas which have become famous for particular kinds of Karamat (miracle) of the saint. Right next to the tomb is a Miswak tree, known in Sindhi as 'Khabbar'.  This is said to be the core place to pledge a Mannat for infertile couples.

It is believed that the leaves of the tree cure any couple suffering from childlessness, and as a Karamat of the saint, a mark of the leaf of tree is impressed on the child born. People then come back to tie their baby's hair at the tree trunk as an offering.

"A young Punjabi couple, who had no children, took this Mannat and their first son was born with a leaf mark on his leg," said Mohammad Yaseen, caretaker in charge of the tomb and an old local resident of Manghopir.

Another Karamat of the saint is the Chashma (water spring). It is said that there used to be no water at in close proximity to the tomb, due to which nearby land used to be barren, and residents and visitors would be severely troubled. Out of nowhere, a spring appeared at the mouth of the tomb; it has been providing warm, sweet water even after over 700 years.

The water that gushes from the spring not only satisfies the water requirements of all local residents, it is said to have curative powers for all skin ailments. "People fill the water in their bottle, and pass it around the grave three to seven times.

They then use it with rose petals for curative purposes, and as a guard against all evils," said a lady, happily showing her own bottle of the same water. 

People also come to pray for the fulfilment of their other wishes. A woman, who put a lock in one of the grill hinges of the shrine, told Kolachi that her son was in jail, and she had pledged a Mannat for his release. "I will keep the keys with me, and come with offerings for Baba and to open the lock once my son is released," she said.

Another practice followed ardently is that of tying a thread to the grave and the interior of the shrine to plead for marriage proposals. "Many women have found their husbands this way," another caretaker of the shrine told Kolachi.

"We are sinful people, but they are saints and Walis whose requests God does not deny," said an elderly woman, who had come to the shrine to pray for her grandchild who was suffering from Leukaemia.

"Eighty per cent of the people who come here are those who have been struck by some misfortune, or are in some urgent need. And most of them come back to pay their respect once their prayers are answered," Yaseen said.

"Some bring flower garlands and Chadors to adorn Baba's final resting place, some bring meat for the crocodiles, some distribute sweets, and others offer food in the form of 'Langar' or 'Niaz'," he continued. "This is distributed among the visitors and the people of the village. Baba Kay Karam Se Koi Bhi Khali Haath Nahi Gaya (Nobody has left the shrine empty handed)," he added.  

The Mannats pledged must be taken seriously, warned Yaseen. "We are all devotees of the Baba because we have all seen his Karamat. But coming back for the Mannat is a must, as there are risky consequences if people forget their commitments" he stated. "The mother of the boy whose child fell among crocodiles had unknowingly forgotten that she had pledged a Mannat for a child," added another devotee.   

Local residents, devotees and beneficiaries believe that it is because of the Almighty's blessings on Pir Mango that the once-arid land has turned into a happy abode for almost 40,000 to 50,000 people. "Pakistan was made some 60 years ago, but this saint is here since 800 years. Initially there was no population here, but after him, his disciples increased, and the population of the area swelled. Today, it is home to almost all nationalities of Pakistan," said Yaseen.

Guardian of the city by the sea

Karachi has been safe from cyclones or other natural disasters because Abdullah Shah Ghazi and his saints are guarding the Arabian Sea, believe Ghazi's devotees. The Dargah of Abdullah Shah Ghazi lies on a hilltop on Clifton, and is said to be about 1300-years-old. The shrine is not only home to Abdullah Shah Ghazi, but also to his friends and followers. Many devotees who turn up at the shrine are those who claim to have seen Ghazi in their dreams. Legend has it that if someone wishes to converse with Ghazi, then the saint appears in the person's thoughts and dreams; many even testify to the veracity of the legend.

One of the most visited portions of the Mazaar is the miracle-well, known as the Chashma-e-Muzama. The spring is situated in close proximity to Ghazi's resting place, and its water is said to cure various diseases. "Years ago, there was no drinking water available here, and people were in great misery," Amanullah, distributor of the spring water, told Kolachi. "Abdullah Shah Ghazi prayed to God for a well of sweet drinking water, and his prayers were heard," he said.

The devotees of Ghazi believe that the area around the well, if dug up, would provide sour water. It is only inside the well that sweet drinking water can be found. Amanullah cited the example of a woman hailing from Punjab, who was cured of diabetes after drinking water from the well.

Ghazi's devotees have also penned a number of prayers and requests to the saint on a wall besides the famous well:  "Baba jee, get my sisters married", "Baba cure my mother's disease", "Baba make Salma fall in love with me", and several other pleading messages and prayers have been scribbled on the wall, and may belive that their prayers will be answered this way.

Just below Ghazi's tomb lies the Mazaar of another Sufi saint, Hazrat Essa. Hamid Shah, a bearded man who acts as the caretaker of the mausoleum, told Kolachi that the tomb is his one and only home. Hamid owns just two pieces of cloth, but is contented with his life.

"Without these saints, the entire Muslim Ummah would have been finished. It's because of them that we are still alive. They saved us and now it's our duty to save those who are in trouble," he stated.

Hamid seemed agitated about the fact that the poor are always being questioned, and the rich seem to get away with whatever they do. "People coming to the Mazaar mostly belong to the lower class, as they find the solution to their problems here."

He shrugged off the controversies regarding the shrine about the abduction of girls, business of drugs and other perceived clandestine activities, terming them an exaggerated version of the politics of the media and the rich.

The shrine, which belongs to the Auqaf Department, is thronged by visitors throughout the year, despite security threats. An employee of the department, requesting anonymity, told Kolachi that the terror threats have not deterred the devotees from coming to the shrine, and they are steadfast in their faith.

The official's account can be corroborated through the stories of those who frequent the shrine. One such devotee, Javed Iqbal, told Kolachi that he has been coming to the shrine every day since the past 38 years, claiming that he feels spiritually connected with the 9th century Sufi and his resting place.

"Baba Jee played a vital role in the spread of Islam in Sindh. He was born in Madina, he came to Sindh with his peers, and performed his duty to bring people towards Islam. For me and thousands of others, he continues to play the part of a mentor, a teacher and a savior," Iqbal said.

"I always visit the shrine when I am in trouble," said Saira, a female devotee in the ladies prayer room at the shrine. "Baba has solved all my problems, and I'm very grateful to him. Even though I live with my sister, I keep visiting the Mazaar to pay tribute to the saint who has done miracles for me and thousands of people."

Meanwhile, Sikander, the voluntary in charge of distributing free food to more than 300 people everyday, claims that there hasn't been a single day when there was no money to feed the destitute and the needy.

Sikander lives in the quarters behind the Mazaar, and has been visiting the shrine since he was a child. "When I grew older, I knew the time had come for me to serve the Lord. Hence, I decided to devote my whole life for the saint up there, and I will keep on serving him till I am alive. Even though my family lives in Nawabshah, my home is where Baba is," he told Kolachi.

Miracles of mediators

Hazrat Syed Bukhari Ibrahim Shah Qadri (17th Century Saint) Mazar, Kharadar:

"The saint was known to have a pair of snakes, a white and a black one, protecting his tomb during the British era and years after that," 65-year-old Hafeez, the caretaker of the Mazaar, told Kolachi.

Some 200 years ago, the saint is believed to have migrated from Thatta to what is now known as Karachi. At the time, the adjoining areas of Kharadar and Mithadar were islands. After the saint prayed for days, water returned to the land, and brought with it prosperity for the locals.

Inside the Mazaar is a tree which is kissed and hugged by many devotees. A woman kneeling before the tree told Kolachi that a doctor had diagnosed that she'll never have a baby and she felt completely helpless. "My grandmother asked me to visit the Mazaar, and pray before the tree," she said.

After praying for three months, she got pregnant and is now a mother of two. Pointing towards the top of the tree, she said: "Though the tree is dead for some twenty years, but it is still standing with the support of wires and nets. But it still has green leaves."

Hafeez said that whether it's autumn or spring,the tree is never without a leaf and always "looks as green as it looks now" – which he said was a miracle in itself. This has been the main attraction for devotees, mostly consisting newly-married women and expectant mothers.

As for the snakes, Hafeez said that their job was to protect the tomb from predators or those with evil intentions. He said that the snakes are long gone, but they still attract devotees nonetheless. "Even today, nobody knows where those snakes emerged from, as the keeper before me found them twirling around the tree one morning and since then they have been a regular feature at the Mazaar. The snakes did not harm anyone and as a result the mazaar attracted more devotees from far flung areas who used to bring milk for the snakes and prayed for their wishes to be fulfilled."

Hazrat Sakhi Zinda Peer Sarkar Mazar, Kalapul

The saint, as is believed by many, appears in front of his most ardent devotees while they are busy praying, and fulfills the wishes of everyone irrespective of the kind of wish.

"Two years back I had no job and not even a prospect of having one, but with the blessings of Zinda Peer I now have a perfect job with a good salary," said 45-year-old Mohammed Babar Baloch, inspector at the Anti Corruption Department in Larkana.

Baloch said that he was completely hopeless, as he was kicked out of his job of 26 years on false corruption charges. "I'm not a religious man and don't pray five times a day, but at that time, I was desperately looking for a way out of my misery and a friend suggested that I should come here."

Once he started visiting the Mazaar, Baloch felt his problems were withering away. "I got a call from a lawyer who had studied my case, and said that he'll pay for the expenses and we are now preparing to fight my case in the high court."

Baloch said that he finds peace and solace at the Mazaar, and visited the shrine on weekends to light candles and distribute sweets among other devotees.

As for his case, Baloch claims that there's no doubt abpout him winning. "I have the blessings of Zinda Peer, and that is more than enough."

Hazrat Syed Peer Qarar Shah Mazar, Mithadar

The origins of the saint are not known to the locals or to the residents of the area, but according to the widely-held belief among the followers, the saint had settled in the area during Mohammed Bin Qasim's time in 512 A.D.

The saint is famous for relieving a person out of their misery and pain.

Thirty-five-year-old Faisal Saleh, an employee at United Mobile, Mithadar, said that his family has been visiting the shrine for the past 80 years, as his grandparents made it obligatory for all to visit the Mazaar at least once in a week.

Saleh said that he never believed in Dargahs and Mazaars, but it was after his newborn suffered from respiratory problems he had to find a way to communicate to God.

"It's not that I believe the saint to be the God, I pray five times, but coming here every morning fills me with hope and strength to face testing times." His 15-day-old son was kept in an incubator at a hospital, and doctors had clearly told him that his son will not live beyond a week.

"The minute the doctor told me this, I immediately came here and prayed till the wee hours of the morning without eating anything."

Next morning, his wife came looking for him and informed him that the doctors had called them.

They were then told that the baby was doing fine, and will no longer suffer with respiratory problems.

"That was the happiest and most unforgettable day of my life. From that day onwards, I come here whenever I face any problem. My son is now one-year-old, and is fine,and I don't see any reason why I should stop coming here as the saint reinstated my faith in God all over again."

Hazrat Syed Masoom Shah Bukhari Mazar, Drigh Road

The saint is said to be among the early settlers in Sindh, and fought alongside the army of Mohammed Bin Qasim for spreading Islam in the subcontinent. The common belief among the followers is that the saint had powers that no human can fight against.

The keeper of the shrine, 55-year-old Miyan Mushtaq, told Kolachi that the British rulers wanted to put a railway track around the Drigh Road, which was supposed to pass through the shrine. "A lot of requests were sent by the locals to realign the track in order to save the shrine, but all these requests fell on deaf ears."

Mushtaq said what transpired after that still gives him goose bumps. As oer legend, labourers used to build the track during the day, but around midnight, the track used to be pulled out of its place and thrown away. British officials, however, carried on with the work, thinking the locals did it.

Next day, while construction work was underway as usual, a British official, who was busy giving instructions, suddenly started being pulled into the ground by an unknown force. This incident created quite a stir in the area, and attracted many devotees. Eventually, the British officials left the shrine and realigned the track, as had been previously suggested.

Mushtaq said that every Thursday and Friday, people from all over the city visit the shrine to pay homage to the saint, and most of them cry and ask for forgiveness.

"We make sure that we guide them as politely as we can. As most of the devotees are illiterate, and they don't understand the fact that the saint was only the messenger of the Almighty, so it's ultimately God's power, which is supreme and absolute."

Mushtaq, whose family has been guarding the shrine of Hazrat Masoom Shah for the past 60 years, also works as a shopkeeper.

He says that for him the saint is like a channel between this world and hereafter. "It is necessary for us to remember the teachings of Sufi saints in this time of chaos and crisis.