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instep profile
Vinnie's new avtar
She's been walking the runway for almost 15 years, but never could a fashion show have meant more to Vinnie than the one set up for the launch of her spring/summer 2007 collection of V9 lawn prints. She wasn't on the ramp that night, but her credibility was. Here was Vinnie reinventing herself as fashion entrepreneur and there was proof enough that she would be a hit at it…

By Aamna Haider Isani

 
The night belonged to Vinnie like never before. There at the artistic shed of the Karachi Commune, all fragments of the fashion and entertainment industry were taken in and somehow wielded together as one. They had all come to show support for the gorgeous woman who had always made so many of their fashion shoots seem a bit more beautiful. Nomi Ansari, Deepak Perwani, Umar Sayeed, Rizwan Beyg, HSY, Sonya Battla, Karma, Shamoon, Shahzad Raza, Yusouf Qureshi, Amean J…the list was endless and it extended to musicians like Zeeshan Parwez, Uns Mufti and even Ali Azmat. Always on the trail to new designers, Zahir Rahimtoola was obviously there to pick out any new potential and Amin Gulgee, who had lent his jewelry to the show, followed accompanied by the one and only Gulgee himself.
 
 
It was a night that crackled with energy; where icy chilled cans of Red Bull flowed freely instead of coffee and hor d'ouvres replaced the lavish banquets that often accompany sponsored shows. The low-lit, smoky air of the shed provided a groovy reception to people who had navigated their ways through the confusing and run down gallis of Old Queen's Road to make it to the newly created hub of fashion that night. Vinnie had invited the world to witness her transition and she had put her finances, credibility and future on line. A huge risk to take, there was never a doubt that she could or would go wrong.

There never has been any doubt that is anyone could structure a business out of the expertise they hold, it would be Vinnie. Where most models in Pakistan tend to fizzle out with time, pursue parallel careers on television or retire to get married and have babies, Vinnie is the only professional after Frieha Altaf who has remained committed to the cause of fashion. V9 is the first step. This year she got six different designers to visualize what could be done with the fabric, but next year, she confirmed she would be designing her own line. It wouldn't be hard to imagine Vinnie taking a bow at Pakistan Fashion Week at some point.
 
 
Her plans don't stop there. Stepping on this roller coaster ride that Pakistani fashion is fast becoming, Vinnie has plans to branch out even further. V9 will progress to Casa V Casa, she confided to Instep, CVC being her line of bed linen. And with home accessories she plans to stock big. Unable to stock her lawn collection last year as the exhibitions were all sold out, Vinnie also confirms plans of opening up her own outlet by next year.

With all these plans buzzing in the air, it was no surprise that her debut show as designer was marked for success. Back to the show, with people packed in the shed, the delay in starting the show provided ample time for the industry insiders to catch up on latest gossips, forecasts and chit chat. It was indeed a noisy bunch that was eventually steered into the runway area.

With Vinnie as shepherd, there were no doubts that the show would boast of fashion's top models and there they were: Iman, Iraj, Nadia, Sunita, Tooba, Fayezah, Sanam, Misha, Gia, Rubab, Neha and the new Nadia Ali. Maliha Naipaul has never really made it as a professional model but her appearance just added to the air of camaraderie already present. ZQ and Tanya were missed. Shahzad Raza out did himself this time, as far as styling goes. With an individual look given to each girl, there was a trendiness to the way they looked and of course Shahzad managed to do that without compromising on them looking beautiful. With HSY on the choreographer's seat, it was indeed a winning combination.
 
Sonya Battla
 
Simple, when compared to the other collections, Sonya's take on V9 was actually the most elegant interpretation of Vinnie's V9. There was no embellishment to overpower the prints and she played with the silhouettes to create spring/summer resort wear. Worn with wide hats and flip flops, Sonya's collection was light, airy and very elegant. The white skirt Tooba wore was a dreamy, floaty vision while Fayezah's blouse was bohemian and funky. This collection established that no one has a strong hold on western prêt like Sonya.
 
Nomi Ansari
 
Known for his eccentric relationship with colour, Nomi showed his mettle with the cat-suit he designed using samples of all prints made available to him. It was an interesting and unpredictable piece and though thoroughly impractical in terms of Pakistan, he showed the world that he was well capable of taking the western route to Pakistan Fashion Week. Surprisingly, Nomi was also the first designer that night to bring the shalwar onto the runway. He created the dhotis in full glory, stamping his collection with a definite signature. Bravo!
 
Karma
 
When it came to adaptations, Karma made sure that their signature wasn't lost in translation. Their version of V9 was a mixed bag that covered a bit of everything with finesse: the frocks, the delicately embroidered tunics worn over trousers and the multitude of coloured ribbons that reminisced Karma collections of last year. The clothes were structured very gracefully and one could imagine being seen wearing one of the embroidered shirts to a dholki or even mehndi. This was endorsement of what Karma can do for fashion. We believe that is a lot!
 
Deepak Perwani
 
Deepak's collection was fun to watch and HSY's well tuned choreography made sure the 'fun' stayed in 'funky'. Suddenly it began raining men and as Martha Wash crooned in the background, a handsome assembly of male models walked in wearing enjoyable versions of V9 for men. Devoid of much fuss, the orange line presented kurtas, sherwanis, shalwars and more and though one couldn't say whether they were all that practical beyond the metrosexual members of the fashion industry, it sure was enjoyable to watch. Deepak's few pieces designed for women, however, were delightfully uncomplicated and wearable.
 
HSY
 
If you've ever seen a proud peacock fan out its feathers, you'll understand the pride and excitement HSY boasted in showing the full range of his creativity that night. Hassan's collection referred to the sixties and his levels of experimentation just showed how far this bright spark would go with prêt and couture alike. There were cotton coats and frocks; there was menswear as well as embellished tunics for women. There was daywear and party wear and everything gelled well because Hassan gave it all his signature twist while keeping the fabric alive.
 
Umar Sayeed
 
The finale was monumental for one reason: it marked Umar Sayeed's debut on the runway. As always with Umar, the embellishments were impeccable, from those on the casual shirts to the more formal contemporary peshwases. Umar has got a definite hold on the craft which is why he's always been heralded as one of the great bridal designers of Pakistan. But all that got lost when interpreted on the very informal character of the fabric. The fully embellished sari blouses that he juxtaposed with printed wraparound skirts and his westerns didn't work. However the UB (Umar Sayeed and Batul Rizvi's collaborative prêt label) influence rode in, presenting some very fine and wearable ethnic ensembles including smartly tailored tunics worn over jeans. This may have been a nervous start for the designer, but one awaits the day he shows his couture in full glory on the ramp!
 
--Photography: Faisal Farooqui