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Beige
ambition Ladies,
be a man! "I
resigned because of Sehyr Saigol" Tradition
for today Hollywood
turns up the heat Enough
with the royals starbytes Be
counted Musical
Notes Vibes End
of an era Enter
at your own risk Musical
Notes Album:
Rapture of the Deep****
Rizwan Beyg always
believed in understated style for the classes, but now that Pakistan is
opening up and fashion's horizon is much wider, he's thinking Dubai, India
and even Harvey Nichols By Aamna Haider Isani
In all fairness, it's a natural transition. While Rizwan Beyg
is a committed fashion addict, he is also a man with his head on his
shoulders. This sudden mood swing comes at a time when the entire industry is
buzzing with excitement. The fashion scene in Pakistan has shifted from the
complacent to the thrilling and Rizwan, as always, intends to be a lead in
the race forward. While he shows at the Governor House for Cherie Blair, he
also prepares for this year's TRC Carnival de Couture – Zeba Hussein has
asked him to show on the most coveted fashion platform in Pakistan. While he
caters to his loyal old cluster of clients in Karachi, he also admits to
expansion in Lahore and Dubai. And he knows this is a clientele that may
appreciate exuberance more than designer excellence. It will be red carpet
glamour over old–world charm. After all, his recent collection did win a
wow from the Lahoris. "Bling is the new buzzword," he exclaims with pride,
dramatically pointing to the flames that surround him. "Lahore was a
precursor for fashion week and the excitement that is to follow. My work has
always been tongue in cheek and I know that the success of any designer is
versatility. Lahore will give me that flexibility. I did the Bollywood
Collection but I brought my own sensibility to it. It was all about glamour.
This side of fashion is part of iconic pop culture. I've been doing couture
for a long time. I need to realize there is prêt out there as well.
"No, no," he jumps to his defense. "I've been
misquoted. I'm not saying 'elitist' or 'exclusive'. It's 'excellence' we're
talking about. You've got the wrong 'E'. It's not about being snooty, it's
about being judged under a certain criteria and yes, that criteria is rigid.
Lahore has this whole thing about recruitment. They're about trade and
commerce. That's fine but we're not working that way. Karachi is more like
the Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture, Paris. They will not accept you
even if you take the $250,000 dollars fee and apply. You need to have
standards. You need to be ramp worthy. That's what we want to do. It's about
excellence regardless of where you're based. "It's not about Karachi or Lahore. You may not be famous
or recognized but if you're good we'll take you. And we're not
accepting/rejecting haphazardly. Every motion a designer passes has to be
approved by a two third majority."
"The Council is
very very well thought out," he adds as if in retaliation to all
negative public speculation rising in the past two years. "We may have
taken longer but we've come forward with extreme confidence. The council is
about ownership. You have to believe in it. Unless you do, it'll be no better
than Karachi Gymkhana. You'll come, swim and go home. I'm happy to be the
Sindh Club of fashion. I want to be valued for excellence. We can't be
apologetic about whatever we do." One tends to agree with the ideology Rizwan advocates but also
notices that he has forgotten to mention the most controversial Advisory
Member – Saniya Kirplani – who has historically raised more suspicion in
the industry than confidence. Indian in origin, based in Dubai, Saniya
Kirplani is one woman who managed to rub the industry's stalwarts the wrong
way when she took several designers including Bunto Kazmi, Nilofer Shahid and
Sana Safinaz to India two years ago. The Femina Show ended in mismanagement
and a lot of ill will. For similar reasons, Saniya was received with raised
eyebrows at last years Bridal Waves. The fact that she stayed with Rizwan
Beyg and the two seemed quite on good terms got the antennae up when she
began taking interest in the fashion council. How, one wondered, did she get
past the screening and why was Rizwan vouching for her?
"Saniya is on the Advisory Board by consensus," he
explains. "She brings a lot to the council – especially where
logistics are concerned. She's been part of India Fashion Week. She was at
the Australia Fashion Week and was recently at Cannes. She has the experience
and is very well connected." But hadn't she commanded more suspicion than respect and
trust? "Everybody, directly or indirectly comes with a lot of
baggage," Rizwan explains, "If people are suspicious of Saniya,
well then they are also suspicious of us. You take what you can use and
discard everything else. Saniya can do a lot for us. And I feel she's very
sincere. She's a fashion person and she gets a buzz out of it. I cannot
question her motives. I'm not a conspirator so I don't think like that. I
can't comment on the Femina situation as I wasn't there. Bunto had problems
with her but they've sorted it out. I've never had any problems with her. She
arranged a meeting with the Precept people within one hour. I think she
delivers." On that note, Rizwan steers the conversation back to fashion.
As a designer, he is more emancipated than he has been in a long time. He
has, after all, been accused of being stuck in the eighties. That accusation
stands no more as he shows the vigour of a new life. "I've been asked to do Carnival de Couture this
year," he says in absolute glee. "I'm excited about it and am
already working on the collection. Maliha Lodhi has also offered me a series
of shows. Cherie Blair has invited me to England to participate in the next
London Fashion Week. Amazing things are happening. The response in Lahore has
been tremendous. I was so overwhelmed by the love and affection. I feel I had
completely lost perspective as a designer and this show gave me reassurance
that I needed." It takes a brave man to admit to a professional patch of
insecurity and Rizwan's confidence testifies that he is well over it.
Designing for royalty may have brought him hype in the eighties but Rizwan
understands that today's fashion is more about business than anything else.
As evidence, one notices the famous photograph of Princess Diana in the
jacket he had designed gathering dust behind a rack of jazzy clothes. The end
of an era is the beginning of another. No longer satisfied with exclusivity, the King of Couture is
now a man on a new mission. He's expanding to Lahore and Dubai, where he's
already stocking at Designers Lounge and Source. He is breaking his label
down into three – 'Razzmattazz', that aims at the young party goers, 'Rizwan
Beyg', quintessential sub continental fashion and simply 'Beyg', long classic
western silhouettes that he hopes to stock at places like Harvey Nichols. Like a true Samaritan, this mission also deals with a social
responsibility and Rizwan seems aware of the need to give back to the system.
He has always recruited graduates from fashion schools from Karachi, but now
he's also taken up the challenge of developing the cottage industry.
"Half my collection this year – the first 30 outfits – were done by
village women in the Dera Ismail – Hazara rural sector. The threadwork, the
taarkashi, the crochet was all done by them. All panni work is done in
village. I believe we have to give back to the community. This is women
empowerment, poverty alleviation. Three of my people shuttle between Karachi
and the districts. We've even bought a computer for these women now. And
they're so openly appreciative and have so much wonder and amazement when
they see the finished garment in pictures."
He's training the women as he will be training young members
of the council. "Yes we will tutor designers to do ramp worthy shows, to
create collections. It won't be a one way street – everybody will be
discussing and looking into everyone else's work. We must move away from the
tamasha," he says passionately. "People fall back on that when
their clothes are not good. At what level are you going to allow your clothes
to speak for themselves?" He adds that years ago, Maheen advised him to
improve his pattern. "She told me my embroidery was exquisite but my
patterns were weak. I took her advice and went on a pattern making course. I
give the same advice to the young lot." From pursuing
individual careers as fashion designers, pioneers like Rizwan Beyg have taken
the responsibility to unite and improve the quality of fashion in Pakistan,
as much as they can. They seem to be riding the wave while attempting to tame
it at the same time. Rizwan Beyg has ruled as king of the castle for a long
time – now he wants to play trade. It will take more than the cultivated
hype he's enjoyed in Pakistan to wow the foreign buyers and he is aware of
this. Designing is more for what will sell than what he inflexibly believes
in. The quintessence of Rizwan Beyg must live on, even if the essence
changes. So, have his designer
aesthetics really changed? Well, we'll believe it the day we see him in a
black and gold kurta instead of the self–embroidered classic he's wearing
today – and yes, it's beige! --Rizwan's photos by Shamyl Khuhro
Ladies,
be a man!
"I
resigned because of Sehyr Saigol" Instep: Why did you
resign from the PFDC?
Instep: The Directors
obviously had more faith in her as Chairperson so how did you end up in this
position to begin with? ZK: I've said so before
– her application was rejected by the State Bank. Legally she couldn't be a
Chairperson. When her application was rejected we had to put Nickie in as her
replacement. Nilofer (Shahid), Maria and Sheru started this council without
Sehyr. This was our council and we were in sync with the senior designers
from Karachi. We never wanted to work with Sehyr. Instep: What changed
things? ZK: One day before we
were to submit our papers to the SECP I got a call from Nilofer who was
sitting at Sehyr's place. I joined them and questioned her (Sehyr's) motives.
Everyone seemed to want her as a Founding Member and I had no problems with
it either. When we were winding up the meeting, Nilofer asked who would be
Chairperson. She wanted us to decide there and then. There was no need for
that urgency. The next thing I know is that she has stepped out of the
council. I asked her and tried to convince her but she was offended that I
hadn't nominated her as Chairperson. I remember calling Maheen and informing
her of these details. Then after that Sehyr began dominating the scene and
got everyone under her influence. Instep: It's hard to
believe that loyalties could change without reason. Are you sure you gave
them no reason to turn their back on you? ZK: Sehyr is a smart
women and she's been manipulating them very well. They have no experience at
all. They may be young and creative but that's not what is required to run a
council. This is an administrative job and they have no understanding of it.
When they were all coming to Karachi I disallowed them from having a press
conference but they still went ahead and did it. Sehyr was leading them. She
even called me before leaving to say that it was best not to disclose names
of the Chairperson or Board of Directors. That was when I really began
suspecting her. That meeting was a disaster and I gave them hell for it. I
admit to have used harsh language that may have offended them. Before this
day they had total trust in me but that began changing. That meeting was the
turning point. Instep: In the months
that you were Chairperson, there must have been something you can remember as
a positive step forward for the Fashion Council. Or was it all petty
politics? ZK: The calendar we
devised was the one good thing we got together. But even there it was always
Sehyr's philosophy against mine. I wanted to raise 6 crore rupees for a
fashion museum. They wanted the shows. But I'm happy to say that the general
body felt safe and happy under my guidance. They felt confident and I had the
community support. It was all fine until this woman came along. Instep: Why couldn't
you work with Sehyr Saigol? You had been her friend for years so why was it
so difficult to work with her? ZK: Her motives were
wrong. She planned to take her hand-selected bureaucrat friends on board and
get funds from the government. I was against this corruption. I offered to
get as many funds needed for Fashion Rocks and believe me, I had the
resources but she was playing another game altogether. It was about involving
her friends, her contacts. Then she chalked up amendments that would give her
power and basically lead to the inclusion of EPB and the Commerce Ministry.
She wanted me to sign them blindly. I was left with no choice but to resign. Instep: Who's heading
the show now? ZK: Oh any idiot will
do it and take her dictation. Instep: But who do you
think that'll be? ZK: There are many
people who fit that description. Instep: Are you now
thinking of joining Fashion Pakistan? ZK: Let me clarify that
the only one reason we separated ways with Karachi was their demands for
excellence. They opposed any of the younger designers being in any position
of authority and I wanted Maria B and Sheru (HSY) to be included as Founding
Members. Maheen told me that they did not have the experience and now I see
that she was right. They may be creative but they are immature too and have
proven it. But as for my joining Karachi, let's wait and see. I will not
answer that question. – Zubair Kumman was
talking to Aamna Haider Isani Instep has repeatedly tried getting in touch with members of the PFDC
for their version, but there has been no response
designer
profile Blending tradition with
vibrant ideas, transferring interesting motifs in her outfits and splashing
bright colours onto the street is how Wardha Saleem ventures in designing… By Maheen Sabeeh
"I hope you didn't
have any difficulty in getting here," says Wardha entering her drawing
room. The room has sofas in dull white and beige all around and then there
are paintings on the wall – and this speaks for the designer's simplistic
taste. Coming from a pure
Sindhi background, Wardha Saleem didn't seem to have any difficulty in taking
up textile design. Optimistic and not overtly ambitious, Wardha always knew
that she wanted to be more than a just another housewife or even more clichéd,
a doctor or an engineer. This is the reason why
she joined Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture (IVSAA). Wardha
graduated from IVSAA in 2003. She has worked for a few labels mainly
specializing in fabric, like Thredz and Khaamta, before introducing her own
label and has not looked back since. "If you have the talent and the
aesthetics, education just polishes it. I'm more confident about saying that
I'm a textile designer because I've spent four years studying textiles,"
she says proudly and further adds, "I've done a short course and a
workshop in fashion. I know the basics of fashion, I know how to cut, and I
am familiar with drapes and how to twiddle with silhouette." Wardha is of the
opinion that formal education in every field is necessary and fashion is no
exception. This is an intelligent way of thinking. Talent isn't always enough
in a field like fashion. Today, fashion is not just about being creative and
having the right aesthetics; it is also a business, one that walks hand in
hand with retail. Realizing the importance of prêt and to be available to
the masses, Wardha has taken the first step towards retail. She is stocking
at Labels – the brainchild of entrepreneur Zahir Rahimtoola which is the
perfect platform for someone who has just started out. This is a smart move
which most up and coming designers fail to make. They instead take the route
to embellishment, designing heavy bridals which earn them fair amount of
money, however, this is not the case with Wardha. "It is not about
money. I don't want to design for every Tom, Dick and Harry. I want people to
understand my work," she says. Yes, many people get designs copied and
walk around in a cheap imitation of someone's well–thought work. But, then
again, if all designers restrict themselves to an exclusive clientele, and
not become commercially accessible to the masses, in the fear that there work
might get copied, will ready–to–wear ever take off? "It's healthy to
work in the retail market. That is why I'm stocking at Labels. I'll know more
about the people, what they like or what they don't like. And I'll keep
innovating accordingly," she dismisses the question.
Her design philosophy
is simple, "I'm influenced by different traditions and cultures. I like
rich, bright colours to work with. I would say my clothes are more towards
contemporary fashion but with a dash of traditional aesthetics." Wardha is aware of the
fact that fashion is not just about creating contemporary and sellable
outfits. This is why her outfits carry a distinct identity. This is what
makes everything from the fabric to the finished outfit fall rightly into
place. She says, "To me, fashion is not just about making outfits that
would appeal to aunties and money would flow in. You know, some people think
that 'okay, we don't have anything to do, might as well become a fashion
designer'. That is just wrong," she expounds. However, Wardha likes to
be called just a designer or a textile designer. "A fashion designer
should know their job. Apart from designing outfits, their job is to guide a
client and have the ability to tell them what looks good and what doesn't. If
I am able to do it, I am successful," she explains. Wardha so far has a
satisfied clientele, before introducing her collection at Labels, the
designer held a few exhibitions, "They were just small and clients came
by word of mouth," adding that she has also done a few shoots for a
couple of periodicals while being a student.
Who else could
understand how a certain fabric would react to embellishment, sequins,
appliqués and embroidery better than a textile designer? She smiles and
says, "But I don't like making khichris (hodgepodge). I weave my own
fabric. I have five weavers. We
work on plain weave structure. I mostly do plains or stripes. The fabric gets
weaved out and then we see what more can be done with it. I work mostly with
cotton but I've also done cotton silk. Cotton silk is more like
semi–formal. Once weaving is done, then I do block or screen printing
and/or embellish it." The one thing Wardha is
very particular about in all her outfits is its identity, which, in
retrospect is not a bad idea at all. Every designer likes to maintain their
own identity and make a statement. Currently, Wardha is
also teaching textile at IVSAA, apart from designing, that is and she enjoys
it thoroughly. "I work with students who've taken print or weaving as
their majors. It is just a lot of fun. You know, it's just not me who's
teaching. I learn a lot too from those students," she says earnestly. As we sit and talk
about the fashion week buzz, Wardha becomes excited but she is not fully
aware of it, "I think it is very healthy that something of this sort is
happening." She is not a part of either of the two councils; she hasn't
been invited by either. But she has no qualms about 'no–invitation'. On the
contrary, she is happy that it is finally happening. "No one could ever
imagine that fashion could be taken so seriously in Pakistan," she
exclaims. True that. In a
country, where fashion has historically been about bridals and kaam as
opposed to prêt, it is amazing that two councils, with some of the biggest
names of our industry, old and new, are working towards fashion weeks and
finally recognizing the importance of ready–to–wear. "As a nation, we
are quite strange. We have issues with things even before they begin,"
Wardha says irritably and adds, "Even if there may not be international
buyers at the fashion weeks (Lahore and Karachi), it is fantastic that two
councils have finally been formed. Rather than sitting at home and crying
over things we don't have, at least a step in the right direction has been
taken. Our designers are doing it for the first time. It would not be right
to criticize them. A structure of this sort will mean meeting of old and new
designers, sharing ideas and experiences and learning from each other." Wardha Saleem is modest
in one word and for someone who knows her work so well, this is amazing. She
has no hang–ups in admitting that a designer who's been in the industry for
over a decade can understand the requirement of the people better than her.
But her composed, ambitious self is adamant that her clothes will work. She
believes in her convictions. Understanding that fashion is a constant
paradox, thriving on new, challenging, and evolving ideas, Wardha Saleem is a
welcome addition to the world of Pakistani fashion. --Wardha Saleem's collection is available at Labels,
Khayaban-e-Shamsheer, Karachi.
instep
overview Long summer afternoons
are perfect time to laze around in your couches and watch movies. All sort of
flicks are set for release, from sequels to remakes to comic book adventures.
Instep gives you a list of the must–watch summer flicks this season… By Maheen Sabeeh Mission: Impossible III
The Da Vinci Code
X–Men: The Last Stand
Poseidon This is a remake of the
1972 classic, The Poseidon Adventure. The film is about a luxurious ocean
liner that is hit by a giant wave and turns the liner upside down, leaving
its group of survivors to fight for their lives and find a way out before
they die. Starring Kurt Russell, Josh Lucas, Emmy Rossum and Jacinda Barett
in pivotal roles, this is another big film from director Wolfgang Peterson,
known for his magnum opus Troy and Harrison Ford starrer Air Force One. His
past works speak for themselves. Poseidon should surely be checked out for
the cute Josh Lucas and of course, the scale of the film, which is huge. The Break-Up
Pirates of the
Caribbean 2: Dead Man's Chest Johnny Depp made the
original a success big enough for Jerry Bruckheimer to come up with a sequel.
And as Captain Jack Sparrow he is once again fighting the supernatural
forces. He finds out that he owes a blood debt (literally) to Davey Jones
(Billy Nighy), Captain of the ghostly flying Dutchman and his sea phantom
mates. Time is running out and if Jack doesn't find away soon, he will be in
eternal service to the Captain in the afterlife. Jack's problems manage to
come in between the wedding plans of Will Turner (Orlando Bloom) and
Elizabeth Swann (Keira Knightley). As a result, the soon–to–be–married
couple joins Jack in another adventure. Superman Returns
Garfield's A Tale of
Two Kitties
Miami Vice
The lukewarm response to
Taj Mahal and Mughal e Azam has left the Pakistani audience cold. Here's
why…
It was hard to get
tickets unless one arrived at least half an hour before the given time when
King Kong arrived in Pakistan. Taj Mahal, however, is just not the same. With
not enough entertainment avenues, people have gone to see the film. But this
film has not brought that upper middle class crowd to the cinemas. The reason
is that they have already seen the film. Ditto with Mughal e Azam. The
audience verdict is clear. India cannot market their old films here. We've
already seen them. Even if Rang De Basanti were to come, it wouldn't run
because Worldcall and other smaller cable networks have been running it every
other day and a master print at that. Ditto for Kuch Kuch Hota Hai. If it
comes on the big screen, it will not do well, because all of Shahrukh Khan's
diehard fans already know the film by heart. However, if Kabhie Alvida Na
Kehna is released here simultaneously or even a week or two after it's Indian
premiere, it will do great business. If they wait for six months, chances
are, it will be a damp squib. Cineplex, the cinema at
Seaview was a promising venture. Unfortunately, the only films ever shown
there are Spiderman and Charlie's Angels 2 and The Matrix. Cinepax brought
King Kong to Pakistan. After a very long time, one had a chance to see a film
that was really made for the big screen. But now, Cinepax has also
disappeared. Private screenings of films – at Royal Rodale, Indus Valley
School of Art and Architecture, and Hot Spot – are the only opportunity.
But it is for a limited number of people and most don't even know about it. Mission: Impossible
III, X-Men: The Last Stand, The Da Vinci Code are films that one can truly
enjoy on the big screen. Fanaa, Kabhie Alvida Na Kehna, Krrish are all films
that can draw in crowds like never before. Will we ever have such an
experience or will we have to wait another year before Cinepax, Nadeem
Mandviwalla and Satish Anand shake the myopic system and fight for the only
logical way to release films in Pakistan? – Maheen Sabeeh
In this era of fragile
cultural freedoms, modern Pakistani popular culturists will need to do
something a bit more meaningful before the pendulum swings back and they are
yet again asked to pack their bags and run home… By Nadeem F. Paracha
Religious parties and
lobbies have been lambasting the so called
"infiltration of Hindu culture" in Pakistan for a very long time.
More so in the last decade or so. They remain to be a
strong and vocal lobby who has always been in the forefront of influencing
the censor and cultural policies of various governments.
But if on one end, one
can quite safely accuse the governments and the state of Pakistan of
continuing to allow these lobbies to flex their muscles and exhibit their
clearly flawed moral moorings, then the so-called liberals too are to be
equally blamed. The liberals have
always failed to understand exactly what makes the political and social
milieu of Pakistan tick (or burst!). Much of the work in this respect is done
on outdated assumptions and with a highly knee jerk
attitude.
On a cultural level, this country has either been in grip of
cultural activity studded with religious propaganda and restrictive moral
idiosyncrasies, or brimming over with meaningless liberal mumbo jumbo. Assumptions regarding
the "masses" in this regard are flawed. The liberals are always
underestimating and undermining popular sentiment, while the conservatives
are constantly overriding popular beliefs by influencing them through the
distortion of the concepts of
morality and patriotism. It is a rapidly
swinging pendulum without a stable, middle position. A middle ground. And it
is this middle ground on which lies the so called
masses' political, social and cultural aspirations and reality. So, while the myopic forces have always been active in
making deep inroads in the ways of the people with their political
parties, tableeghi jamaats and related activity, why can't our creative
liberals do the same? They cannot afford to
keep calling themselves "entertainers" only. Many of them will have
to stand up and do something with a bit more meaning, before the pendulum
swings back and they are yet again asked to pack their bags and run home. Fearlessly the idiot
faces the crowd … There are numerous
examples in the realms of Western cinema,
popular music, television and the fine arts, in which
the finished work is not only aesthetically impressive and
entertaining, but is a meaningful statement on the human condition as well. Highly entertaining and
professionally made keeping in mind monetary profits, these films, plays and
songs do not repress
the moral duty of a public artist to also consider the political and
social condition of their audience. And no matter how much
daunting the advent of cold cut commercialism in matters of popular culture,
the above remains to be modern popular art's true social calling.
Little by little the
night turns around … Television Khuda ki Basti
(1969–70) Based on Shaukat
Siddiqui's novel of the same name, this Bukhtiar Ahmed directed PTV serial
still stands tall as a sensitive and realistic peek in the lives of dwellers
living in Karachi's sprawling urban slums (called Katchi Abadis), and whose
lives are constantly wrought with economic and social calamities brought on
by lopsided economics, a flawed system of justice and social hypocrisy.
Nijaat (1974) A one of a kind PTV
offering, this Mohammad Nisar Hussain directed play concentrated squarely on
a village preacher's (molvi's) life and how he starts to disintegrate while
coming to terms with his sexual urges. This play has never been repeated
after its original airing. It is however available on DVD. Sonay ki Chirya (1975)
Jhok Syial (1975–76) This long–running
serial written by Munnu Bhai and directed by Yawar Hayatt, addressed feudal
oppression and religious superstition in rural Punjab. This serial can also
be seen as a way to study the gradual shift in Punjab (in the late '70s) from
liberal Barelvi–ism to conservative Deobandi–ism and a more puritanical
strain of Sufism (Ashfaq Ahmed plays in the '80s).
Fifty–Fifty
(1978–84) Populist satire skit
show ironically inspired by the more pompous Such Gup (1972–75). Managed to address
various social issues with great wit and tact during the height of Zia's
conservative regime. Early on scripted by Anwar Maqsood and directed by
Shoaib Mansoor. Waris (1979–1981)
Tapish (1989) Written by Noor–ul–Huda Shah and directed by Saira Kazmi,
this serial bemoaned the many young lives that were lost and families broken
during Zia's 11–year–dictatorship. Jamal Shah's angry young man role
turned him into a star while Tapish went on to influence a series of similar
plays between 1989 and 1991 (such as, Amjad Nadeem Syed's Neelay Haath). Loose Talk (2002) Hosted and scripted by
the always in season, Anwar Maqsood, and mostly enacted by the stunningly
versatile Moin Akhtar, Loose Talk confronts various thorny issues with great
wit, parody and hilarity, sometimes sounding a lot more sensible than the
many so called "serious" political talk shows! Daira
(2003) A botched attempt to
dramatize Mohsin Hamid's highly overrated novelized opera of yuppies gone
wild. Nonetheless, this remains to be local television's most recent attempt
to face up to issues like non–marital sex, drugs and decadency. Music 'Meray Saath': Final
Cut (1989) Though now defunct,
Final Cut was one of the first Pakistani pop/rock bands to air a
"socially conscious" song. 'Meray Saath' (performed twice on PTV in
1989), heavily alluded to the effects of the time's campus violence between
student groups in which dozens of students were killed between 1989 and 1991.
'Mera Dil Nahi
Available': Vital Signs (1991) Very few know that this
popular teen beat pop tune about a heartless flirt is actually a symbolic
take on America's fickle ways with country's like Pakistan. The idea was
conceived by former Signs' vocalist Junaid Jamshed and lyricist Shoaib
Mansoor. 'Aisa Na Ho': (1991) Perhaps the Signs' most
abrasive song, which, like an ardent alarmist, rues the loss of hope and
euphoria first discovered at the fall of the Zia regime in 1988; a euphoria
that stood squandered with a fresh round of corruption, political intrigue
and ethnic and sectarian violence. 'Talaash': Junoon
(1993) An angry, guitar
slinging attack on Pakistani establishment's "slave mentality," but
done with some potent sense of humor ( a sound byte imitating the not so
coherent sounding former President Ishaq Khan announcing General Zia's death
hilariously punctuates the raving lyrics and driven composition). 'Jaago': Jazba (1993) Based on the
"freedom struggle" in Kashmir, this militant rap song bounced into
prominence with a simple but mighty effective video. Even though mouthing
about a struggle hijacked by the religious right, Jazba as a band ironically
came in from the neo–Marxist perspective.
'Sona Chahta Hoon':
Najam Shiraz (1994) A twisted, raving
document on the insomnia inducing paranoia plaguing urban living.
'Chief Saab': Sajjad
Ali (1995) A bouncy tongue in
cheek look at the time's infamous and politicized hooligan culture in
Karachi. 'In Sey Nain Mila Kay
Dekho': Najam Shiraz (1996) Long before falling
prey to self–righteous evangelism, Najam, like Junoon, began on the left
sides of ideology. This song is an early example,
passionately commenting upon the pragmatism and deceiving ways of
modern capitalist system. 'Main Kaun Hoon':
Junoon (1996) Written with a Marxist
journalist, (Shahzad Amjad), this song furthered Junoon's journey from being
angry left field rockers towards becoming "spiritual
revolutionaries." Attaches social change with self discovery in the
tradition of Iranian scholar, Ali Shariati.
'Rooh Ki Pyaas':
Junoon (1996) An atmospheric Sufi–ist
plunge longing for spiritual companionship in the material world. 'No Love': Dr. Aur
Billa (1996) Ace pop pranksters, Dr
Aur Billa, jolt various complacent video/pop/film formulas in this madcap
take on social conformity in the showbiz industry.
'Billo Dey Ghar': Abrar–ul–Haq
(1996) A playful bhangra pop
opera involving a street smart Romeo falling for a prostitute and facing the
consequences (i.e. crooked cops in league with petty bourgeoisie moral
hypocrisy). 'Ehtesaab': Junoon
(1997) After over
enthusiastically attaching itself with the time's right wing Imran Khan–Hamid
Gul nexus against the Benazir Bhutto government, this song is no more than a
naive anthem for Khan's soon to be inaugurated political party. Junoon's
shift from the angry left to a hotchpotch right was now complete. 'Mr. Fraudiay': Awaz
(1998) Though a frivolous boy
band making disposable bopper pop, Awaz surprised everyone with this witty
comment on the double–dealing ways of political king makers. 'Irtiqa–III': Entity
Paradigm (2003) Even though a mixed
bunch of showbiz multitaskers (musicians/fashion models/actors/directors), EP
delivered one of the most powerful statements on the modern human condition
with this highly dramatized chestnut. However, it is likely very few of them
really ever believed what they were passionately chanting about. 'King of Self': Sajid
& Zeeshan (2004) Though masquerading as
an anti–smoking avowal, 'King of Self' is a concentrated attack on the
social and creative pitfalls of the plague of unabashed corporate sponsorship
in the Pakistani music scene. 'Peeli Patti Aur Raja
Jaani Ki Gol Dunya': Noori (2005) Heavily criticized for
opting to let themselves be turned into a harmless pop/punk act by a music
channel and corporate sponsorship, former underground darlings Noori returned
with this delightful piece which though subtle in its social comment was
heavy in self parody.
Pakistani
1.Be The One - Omer Inayat 2.Jilawatan - Call 3.Overload - Overload 4.Princess - Ainee 5.Jalpari - Atif Aslam
1.Stadium
Arcadium - Red Hot Chilli
Peppers 2. Let Love In
- Goo Goo Dolls 3.Ten Thousand Days -
Tool 4. PCD - Pussycat Dolls 5.Back To Bedlam -
James Blunt Hindustani 1.Fanaa
2. 36 Chinatown
5. Hum Ko Deewana
Kargaye Courtesy: Laraib Music, Clifton Shopping Centre, Boating Basin, Karachi.
|
Rizwan
Beyg has gone from beige to bling. The muted, monochromatic and utterly
dignified couture he's always had an undying love for has suddenly been over
ridden by a fascination for the kaleidoscopic. In his studio where once hung
masterpieces of an old–world charm, today Rizwan sits flooded amidst
shocking pink saris, dramatic diamante dresses, jackets embellished with
silver panni work and the aura of everything that he's vowed to never touch
with a bargepole. It seems like a fashion assault and it does seem as if he
has surrendered. Has his first love taken a backseat or has he given up his
good taste for a healthy dollop of Bollywood? 
Like
the industry, there is also an air of busy–ness around Rizwan these days.
He agrees to be interviewed on a day when he's traveling to Singapore – a
hundred things need to be organized – passports, visas, travel logistics,
custom clearance and most importantly the collection he's carrying. So when
he walks in, he seems like a man on a roll and reminds one of the
single–man–band. He has a cell phone literally strapped to one hand,
while he gulps down an icy cold sprite with the other – in this sunny city,
temperatures seem to be soaring. In one moment Rizwan is starry eyed and
adoring for his new passion in fashion and in another he's frowning at his
assistant for not updating his partners of travel arrangements. His mind
works like clockwork, literally steaming off at the ears and to an
on–looker, the very sight of Rizwan Beyg is exhausting.
It's
time to save the halters, off shoulders, low necklines and everything that
shows off the female dÈcolletage for parties and balls. Girly, pretty and
cutey is OUT. When it comes to day dressing, power is the game and collars
are the name. Pick up your lawn prints if youíre unlikely to take a trip to
a boutique and ask your tailor to give you every variety available: tuxedo
collars, shawl collars, collars on V-necks, mandarins and that sub
continental favourite - the kurta collars. The only one type to stay away
from is the Peter Pan collar; recommended for 10-year-olds only. Collars are
a worldwide trend these days with designers at Hermes, Prada and the Karl
Lagerfeld designing their take on the shirt dress. Now even if you don't wear
dresses, your kameezes can look like them with a simple curving of the
hemline and a collar-open-front. So simply strap a scarf around your neck and
feel ready to take on the men outside! Power Dressing is at your doorstep.
Zubair
Kumman: Basically because one person, who was not even a legal member of the
council, was trying to control it. That one person was Sehyr Saigol. I
consulted the Directors (Maria B, HSY and Nickie) but they too told me that
it was Sehyr's council.
With
locks of long, dark brown hair falling on the orange kurti she pairs with
white pants, Wardha looks quite attractive. The kurti is designed obviously
by herself. Wardha wears her own fashion. After all, it's not just her own
design, it's also her own fabric. Yes, she has weavers making her fabric and
that is what she is qualified in. A textile designer by education, Wardha
seems to be taking full advantage of it. 
Wardha
comes across as an intelligent girl, she thinks before she speaks but not in
confusion. She talks in a simple manner but smiles throughout, making the
other person feel right at home. She throws in a lot of Urdu words, another
indication that she is proud of her heritage. So proud that she dabbles in
traditional crafts and lets them influence her work. She has a keen
understanding for tradition and cultures – even this comes from her
education. She has studied the history of fabrics. She takes a bit from
various cultures – it could be anything, an African motif which has caught
her fancy, the old Sindhi kaam she wants to give a new twist to or the plain
old khaddar she wants to get printed. For Wardha, heritage certainly doesn't
mean old school. It is rather on the contrary. She uses heritage and gives it
a funky overhaul. Her clothes are fun with minimal embellishment and bright
colours – they can easily be categorized as contemporary with just the
right twist of tradition. Whether there are small peacocks dancing on a shirt
or a hen motif she has made using a traditional craft of Sindh or even the
fish motif coming from the Sindhi folklore she wants to print on one of her
fabrics, it is fascinating to see her weave all of this in her outfits. 
She
is not designing bridals for now, focusing on more fun wear and outfits you
can't wear through the day, "I haven't started bridals yet. I do casuals
and formals. I do design for brides but not the main outfit. If someone is
getting married and she wants a few joras for jahez, I'll do that. I have a
very casual funky line. My outfits have elements of fun. You enjoy wearing
them. It has a background to it. Block prints, screen prints, embroidery, and
cuts. I work with everything." And being a textile designer surely
helps. Her education gives her that edge over others. 
This
time around, super agent Ethan Hunt (Tom Cruise) has retired from duty. Now
he trains IMF agents instead. Then comes Owan Davian (Philip Seymour Hoffman)
into the scene – Owan is an international weapons and information provider
without a conscience. He is Ethan's worst and most dangerous enemy. Hunt
assembles his team of agents – Luther Strickell (Ving Rhames), Declan
(Jonathan Rhys Meyers), Zhen (Maggie Q) and Lindsey (Keri Russell) – and
goes hunting for Owan and to rescue his love, Julia (Michelle Monaghan).
Another reason to watch this film besides the explosive action sequences is
because of its direction by J.J. Abrams. He is the man who wrote and directed
television series Alias and the latest hit series on the block, Lost. 
This
is the most controversial film of the year. Adapted from Dan Brown's
bestseller by the same name, the film opens up with a murder in Paris' Louvre
Museum. Near the body, a mysterious symbol is found. A Harvard symbologist
Robert Langdon (Tom Hanks) gets an urgent call and comes to solve the riddle.
The cipher leads to a series of clues, and with the help of French
cryptologist Neveu (Audrey Tautou), Langdon discovers that the murdered man
was a part of a secret society known as Priory of Sion. Langdon and Neveu
stand up against a manipulating, faceless man, who is working for Opus Dei
– a Vatican–sanctioned Catholic organization, plotting to seize the
Priory's secret. Unless Langdon and Neveu discover the facts, a powerful,
stunning historical truth
The
human race's protectors are back in the most exhilarating comic flick ever.
This third film in the franchise of X–Men picks up right from where the
last film ended, that is, the death of Jean Grey (Famke Janssen). Jean Grey
is resurrected and is possessed with the cosmic power of the Dark Phoenix.
She is a threat to herself, her mutant friends as well as the entire planet.
To save the world from this ultimate threat, a cure is discovered for Jean.
The aim is also to stop genetic mutation, once and for all. Wolverine (Hugh
Jackman), Storm (Halle Berry), Rogue (Anna Pacquin) among others, led by
Professor Charles Xavier (Patrick Stewart) must save Jean as well as stop
Magneto (Ian Mckellen), former Xavier ally and his band of bad mutants, who
want to take over mankind and destroy them before it's too late!
Brooke
(Jennifer Anniston) breaks up with boyfriend Gary (Vince Vaughn) but neither
of the two is willing to move out of the condo they share. Advice from
friends as well as complete strangers lead the two to make each other's life
a living hell. They try to make the other person flee from the condo, until,
one fine day, they realize that maybe this is some unconscious attempt by
themselves to keep the relationship alive. So, maybe the story isn't that
great. But any chance to see Jennifer Aniston and Vince Vaughn together
onscreen since their affair is a reason enough…
Superman
returns to planet earth after a long stay at the remains of Krypton to save
human beings, once again, and claim the love of Lois Lane. Directed by Bryan
Singer, the film is led by Brandon Routh (Clark Kent/Superman), Kate Bosworth
(Lois Lane) and Kevin Spacey as Lex Luthor. Superman is the most adapted
character as far as comic book heroes are concerned. In 1938, the first radio
Superman program was aired, followed by many adaptations for television and
in 1978, the first Superman movie hit the globe with Christopher Reeve,
Marlon Brando and Gene Hackman in lead roles. After 1987's fourth Superman
film, no other film was ever made until this one. Television and cartoon
series, however, continued and to this day are very popular. This is one of
the most anticipated films of the year and is a must-see film.
Another
comic book sequel is on its way to cinemas all over the world with Garfield's
A Tale of Two Kitties. Garfield (voice of Bill Murray) goes to UK with his
goofy owner Jon Arbuckle (Breckin Meyer). An identification mistake leads
Garfield to a castle, which he rules with all his antics. But soon his throne
is threatened by the evil Lord Dargis (Billy Connolly), who has other ideas
about the castle. The film also features Jennifer Love Hewitt as Meyer's love
interest. Bill Murray was brilliant the last time as Garfield. He is a
seasoned actor and his voice did perfect justice to Garfield's character in
the last film. This flick will be one helluva movie with witty one–liners
and fantastic graphics and casting. Do check it out. 
The
only films to release in Pakistan after a ban of almost 41 years are Mughal e
Azam and Taj Mahal. Both films are based on the Mughal era. Why is it that no
one has talked about or planned to bring a film like Bluffmaster or Rang De
Basanti to local cinemas? Despite the fact that Indian actors like Fardeen,
Feroz Khan, Manisha Korala, Kabir Bedi amongst others brought the film to
Pakistan, it hasn't managed to rake in the hordes like King Kong did
recently. The film's success is because of the fact that it was released
weeks after it's premiere in the West. The hype around it was hot and with
the plethora of film channels like HBO, Star Movies, et al we got the full
blast of that hype. On the contrary, the promos of Taj Mahal are a distant
memory and one remembers the bad reviews it got from everywhere. As a result,
even the star power of the Khan khandaan wasn't enough to give it a good run.
-
Karan Johar is one superstitious man. His obsession with the letter 'K' is
dominant in every one of his films. But another belief that Karan can never
let go off is that of Kajol. The young director feels that she is his lucky
mascot. Despite not being in the lead in Kal Ho Naa Ho, Kajol was featured in
a 4–second clip in the 'Aaja Mahi Ve' track. Speculation about Kabhie
Alvida Na Kehna have been doing the rounds in the industry as to if whether
the director will have his lucky mascot in his upcoming venture. Recently, it
was reported that this time around, Kajol would appear in KANK, against
Amitabh Bachchan and Abhishek Bachchan. Will it be another another 'Kajra
Re'? Only time will tell, but Kajol is looking super fit and super hot these
days. The song will also feature Preity Zinta, Rani Mukerji and King Khan
Shahrukh. Is this just another juicy rumour or the truth, no one can say. But
hey, for what it's worth, one can never get tired of watching Kajol on screen
and if Shahrukh is in the same frame, well that's just icing on the cake!
-
Speaking of K, Krrish is going through one huge controversy. With just a few
weeks away from release, Krrish is being labeled with plagiarism by an
independent filmmaker and writer, Ivan Rana. Rana claims that he approached
Rakesh Roshan with the story of Krrish, which was written by him. The year
was 2003 and the story was titled Superhero. He left the concept with Rakesh
Roshan who later told him that he was not interested in the project. Rana
left for USA to make an independent film and had no idea that Krrish
(Superhero) was being made in India by Rakesh. It was only after coming back
to India did he realise that Krrish was his idea. He claims that he even
designed the mask, which Hrithik wears in the film. Since Rana hadn't
registered the story anywhere, it would be difficult, if not impossible, for
him to take a legal action against the Roshans. The Roshans are far too busy
to deal with Rana and have offered no comments. From the trailers, Hrithik
looks more like Neo from The Matrix. Was that also Ivan Rana or the costume
designer, we will probably never know. For now, wait and watch, as Krrish
will be India's first superhero – and no, Hero Hiralal simply didn't count!
-
Bollywood villain Shakti Kapoor recently got himself thrown out of a 5–star
hotel. Shakti Kapoor was in Goa, shooting for a film and had checked into Goa
Marriott Resort. During his stay, one night he decided to have drinks in one
of the resort's restaurant. After a few drinks, he asked for some pork chops.
The waiter told him that none were available. When the bill was given to him,
an intoxicated Shakti started punching the waiter. Offended at not being
served, he urinated near the swimming pool. "The actor behaved in the
most irrational manner. A person like him urinating in public and that too,
in a 5–star resort is really a disgrace," said an eyewitness. He also
slapped the duty manager and abused the security staff. "The duty
manager then called the police to intervene," a resort staff said. No
complaint was lodged but he was thrown out. Of course, Shakti Kapoor had a
different version from that of the resort authorities. "There was
nothing physical. It was a little bit of misunderstanding. They gave me
somebody else's bill. When I told them that the bill was not mine, there was
an argument. But, I talked to the hotel staff and now everything is sorted
out." Too much in character Shakti, are we?
-Katie
Homes' father is finally relived now that the prenup pact between his
daughter and Tom Cruise is reportedly worth 52 million dollars.
Cloudless
everyday you fall upon my waking eyes …
Only
dimly aware of a certain unease in the air …
It
is surprising how so many people misunderstand the whole idea of cultural
activities that aspire to address social and political issues. They imagine a
play, a film or a song that runs like a cold, cynical
A
brilliantly enacted play about the lives of street children (in Lahore) and
the relationships they strike with other dispossessed characters, with
poverty and desperation being the only constants in their lives. 
This
Yawar Hayatt/Ghazanfar Ali directed and Amjad Islam Amjad scripted serial
courted controversy when
-
Zoheb Hassan is all set to take on the music scene with his comeback album
Kismet. Talking to Instep, he said, "The album is associated with a play
on Geo, which will air on the 15 of May on Geo. I have been working on this
album for two years and have produced it myself. It has been recorded in
Pakistan and Britain. A lot of different musicians have come together for
this album, as arrangers, et al. This album was supposed to be between Nazia
and me but after her death, I shelved myself away from music. But after
encouragement from a lot of people, I have decided to release it. This album
is dedicated to the memory of Nazia. One track has been given to all the
radio stations." Sohail Javed will be directing the first video from
this album, which is slated for a release for the 20 of this month, and the
album for May 25. How far will this album take Zoheb Hassan, we don't know
but it will be one definite buy album. For now, watch out for the video by
Sohail Javed, who seems to be a hot favourite amongst all major bands and
artists…
-
Jal and EP, the two leading pop/rock bands have parted ways from their
management company, Jilawatan. The company organised by Khurram Khan also
manages other bands like Call, and Roxen, both of which are getting popular
these days. "There has to be a reason behind this, otherwise I am not
that unreasonable," he said. However, the reasons given by Khurram were
personal such as a couple of members of the band, EP "bad mouthing and
talking to promoters," he wrote in a rather emotional message in an
online forum. The artist/band management companies are few and far between,
as most bands and artists rely on spouses or relatives to manage them or
simply function without media managers. There are a few cases when media
managers fail to do their job. The most properly managed band in our music
history would have to be Junoon. But as the music industry seems to mushroom,
the need for artist management has kicked in – Frieha Altaf is just one
example, who gave a new image to actors Shaan and Meera. And she is ready to
manage musicians now. Let's see how that turns out to be, for the moment, it
is Jal and EP who are going to look for a manager…
-
Pakistani Pop artists continue to do that all –important stint of releasing
albums, videos and songs in India and Call follows suit. This new and
promising band has released their debut album in India, which is a bigger
market and a better exposure for bands who see Pakistan as a smaller market.
India promises to make you international much quicker than it is for a band
to make it out of Pakistan. This is what lures our pop artists to cross the
border in search of publicity and stardom and why not? Call has been launched
through MTV India exclusively. The band is also featured as the channel's 'Moto
Alert Artist of the month' for the whole of May. Previously, Faakhir, Ali
Zafar and Jal have also been featured for the same. Their management company
also stated that they are going to record a song for a Bollywood production
and will also do some recordings for MTV. However, there were no further
details on this. Call had released another video following their great debut,
'Sab Bhula Kay'. The song was sponsored by a cellular service provider, Warid,
and turned out to be a five minute advert. 'Kal Hamara Hai' was another good
song by the band and was to contribute towards the earthquake relief fund.
Even though, it was made for a good cause, the video was blatantly branded
with sponsor logos throughout... 
-
M Live nights are continuing with their string of live performances by
bringing in old and new bands to display their talents of live singing at the
small gigs, which have gained a lot of popularity in a short time. One reason
is also the airing of these gigs on a local music channel, adding to the
appeal and exposure of the new artists. New bands need to be supported and M
Live nights seem to be a good platform for them. This time around, there were
two artists, Ali Sheikh of Rooh fame and Wajd, a new and upcoming band. Ali
Sheikh released his album last year and came up with a crazy video which
played on the channels a lot. Hailing from Islamabad, the young performer was
promising. He mostly sang Junoon's songs as he is a big fan of the rock band
as well as his two popular songs, 'Ishq' and 'Iku Allah'. Wajd performed
after Ali. Apart from their songs, 'Faramoshi' and 'Jeena Chahta Hoon' they
performed covers of Pink Floyd's 'Comfortably Numb' and Nusrat Fateh Ali
Khan's 'Dholna.' It is good to see new bands getting a taste of concerts and
putting their live singing skills to a test with these small gigs. No matter
how small they are, they are bound to bring a positive change to the music
industry, which seems to be on a roll right now.
"I'm
much more comfortable with doing interviews now because I'm harder to
misquote. Everything I'm about is freedom of choice and knowing what the
truth can do." – Prince 
Vilayti
3.
Krrish
Last
week one of India's greatest music composers, Naushad Ali, passed away at the
age 86 in Mumbai. Nothing short of a genius, he will always be remembered as
the 'Mughal e Music of Indian cinema. His life has been a long arduous
journey that began with acute deprivation and led to unfathomable heights of
fame. And there is one lesson we learn from the great Naushad – passion for
one's art and the thirst to achieve the impossible combined with dedication
would always be a winning combination in life.